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董国海, 邹志利. 海岸碎波拍的计算[J]. 力学学报, 1998, 30(1): 43-50. DOI: 10.6052/0459-1879-1998-1-1995-096
引用本文: 董国海, 邹志利. 海岸碎波拍的计算[J]. 力学学报, 1998, 30(1): 43-50. DOI: 10.6052/0459-1879-1998-1-1995-096
A NONLINEAR MODEL OF SURF BEAT 1)[J]. Chinese Journal of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics, 1998, 30(1): 43-50. DOI: 10.6052/0459-1879-1998-1-1995-096
Citation: A NONLINEAR MODEL OF SURF BEAT 1)[J]. Chinese Journal of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics, 1998, 30(1): 43-50. DOI: 10.6052/0459-1879-1998-1-1995-096

海岸碎波拍的计算

A NONLINEAR MODEL OF SURF BEAT 1)

  • 摘要: 研究了一维碎波拍的计算方法.波浪控制方程由欧拉方程在短波周期上平均而得到.为了考虑低频波浪在海岸上的破碎,采用了WAF(WeightedAverageFlux)方法求解长波方程.对由辐射应力和海底摩擦力引起的方程非齐次项采用了时间算子分裂法进行了处理,并对由此产生的误差进行了修正.计算了单色波和双色波垂直入射海岸的情况,并与实验结果进行了对比.

     

    Abstract: A nonlinear, short-wave-averaged model of surf beat, which describes essentially long-period motions associated with the mean free surface,is presented. The numerical techniques used in the solution are based on so-called Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method, with Time-Operator-Splitting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modelling breaking long waves. The short wave (or primary-wave) energy e...

     

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